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Whenever assembling a ranking of London’s finest dining spots, one might expect well-known award-winning names. But, tucked near the top among these gastronomic giants is a modest salonu located in a far-flung corner of north London.

An Unexpected Accolade

The little Turkish eatery, specialising in the specialties of Mersin, a metropolis on Turkey’s south coast, has been named the fourth finest restaurant in the metropolis by a respected gastronomic guide. The recognition has left the family completely shocked.

“I’m utterly shocked,” remarks a proprietor, alluding to his family’s hard graft that culminated in their small place securing such a prominent ranking on a prestigious 99-strong list.

The Appeal of Simplicity

The compact space, which used to be a basic cafe before its conversion into a popular destination, has maintained much of its earlier charm. It fits just more than 20 people and, beyond the dazzling live cooking performance, the setup remains largely unchanged. “It’s a tiny and intimate place,” notes the owner.

The Signature Dish: Tantuni

However, it is all down to the cuisine, and this restaurant certainly succeeds. The eatery’s signature dish, tantuni, is a simple joy. Choice of meat—either lamb or chicken—is steamed to keep a succulent consistency.

The meat is then added into a sizeable pan with flavours and oil, which are added in gradually. Once the savoury mixture bubbles up, handmade lavaş—a thin, flexible bread—is laid on top to soak in all the flavours. Finely sliced onions and a dash of parsley are placed before the flavourful meat is rolled neatly inside.

It is often enjoyed with a squeeze of lemon or some tangy accompaniments. The end result is a strong slap of flavour, with subtle hints of sumac, bold onions and rich, paprika-red oil bringing it all in harmony.

Beyond the Classic Tantuni

Patrons can also try yoğurtlu tantuni, where the savoury lavaş is cut up and topped with yogurt, tomato sauce and cooked, nutty browned butter. The prominent food critic called this dish “a part of London’s few ideal, faultless dishes”.

When it comes to sweets, the restaurant’s künefe is a treat. It is soaked in less syrup than usual, resulting in it a richer, toastier and less sickly taste.

Outranking the Giants

Interestingly, this unassuming spot has been placed higher than several illustrious three-Michelin-starred establishments. It finds itself close to the peak of the list, following other high-profile dining destinations.

Whereas two people could easily leave the restaurant satisfied for under £25, equivalent tasting menus at top-tier establishments can cost many times that price.

The Creed of Heart

It is also part of several Turkish restaurants included and is located well beyond the city’s central zones. “It’s not about luxury. London is an expensive city. It is assumption that in an high-cost place you’re going to have the top service and finest food but I do not believe in that,” states the owner.

“I believe what is paramount is hospitality, a welcoming atmosphere and somewhere you can be yourself and feel calm.”

The view is shared by the list’s curator, who remarked that if he was in a role of power, he would “insist to have every chef in London come to this spot as a masterclass, to show them the traps of overcomplication, and to demonstrate what is possible if you do only a handful of – or three – things to their absolute best”.

The Path of Hard Work

In contrast to most chefs running kitchens in the list’s highest ranks, the mastermind behind the food did not train at elite restaurants. “I am very proud of our restaurant and our mum,” concludes her son.

Many restaurants take years to find their footing, but this one first launched seven years ago. Its acclaim is owing to tireless, seven-day weeks of dedication.

“Our mum would be really tired. She would go shopping in the morning and create the food in the afternoon. Each item is made by hand; she would do all of this. She is a solo parent and she managed a life outside work but her friends would visit to support her. She was raising children and a house to look after as well. All of these responsibilities forged her into what she is now: a remarkable person,” he shares.

An Recognition for the People

The restaurant’s success is likely to echo beyond its own doors. “I think many people would be happy, as I am, because the Turkish community is a significant part of London,” notes the owner, pointing out the broader significance of this culinary achievement.